Return to India - The Tombs

After our day in Ramoji we felt a need for some history so we decided to visit Qutub Shahi tombs near Galconda. My colleague had seen them before but I hadn't so it was something I was looking forward to since last year. We started out fairly early expecting a long drive but our driver surprised us by weaving through back streets and getting us there very quickly. We paid ten rupees each to get in and I had to pay an additional 20 rupees for my camera's admission. This is the only place in the world where my camera required admission, I found that funny. One of the guys in the admission booth offered to act as our tour guide and he was an excellent choice. We were taken through the entire tomb complex and saw the inside of several of them. The Qutub Shahi dynasty ruled in Galconda for 171 years. The first ruler was Sultan Quli Qutub Mulk who conquered Galconda and became its Governor in 1518. The new Islamic dynasty split the Telagu nation into two countries, one ruled by muslims and the other by hindus. This division remained in force until 1948, long after the dynasty fell to the Mughul emperor Aurangzeb in 1687. This gives the area around Galconda a unique multicultural character that is highly valued by most here. When the Charminar was built the ruler prayed: "Oh God, bestow unto this city peace and prosperity. Let millions of men of all castes, creeds and religions make it their abode. Like fishes in the water." Whatever else is true this is exactly what came to pass. The tomb of Abul Hassan Qutb Shah, the last member of the dynasty, remains unfinished as he was killed when Galconda was conquered.

The Qutub Shahi dynastry was Islamic and inside each tomb is a black marker inscribed with verses from the Koran. The main tomb contains the remains of Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah the builder of Charminar. You can see a replica of the minarets in this photo. His wife's tomb is there as well and nearly as large. We were told a number of times that she was the wife of the builder of Charminar, daughter of a king, mother of..... and so on. Our guide was very proud of his historical script and recited it well. He also was a singer and intoned an Islamic chant inside one of the larger tombs. It resonated and reverberated inside the dome for a long time. My colleague and I both found this inspiring and I was glad for the chance to see the beautiful side of Islam.

After the tombs we went to Hyderabad Central for lunch and some shopping. On a patio overlooking traffic there is a McDonald's and we had to try it once. I had the Maharaja Chicken Burger which tasted a bit like chicken tikka and cost 125 rupees (about $3.12). Their fries were outstanding and seemed to be cooked in a special kind of oil. I took a photo inside and was severely chastised, evidently this is forbidden for some reason. But I still got the shot. After lunch we did some shopping. I bought a pair of Reebok sandals which served me well the rest of the trip as well as "The Complete Indian Cookbook" with great recipes and photos of each. I was determined to return from this trip armed with the necessary information to cook authentic Indian food. We wandered through other stores and got a feel for the kind of clothing that is considered stylish here, furniture, appliances and the other merchandise local people buy. Interestingly I saw only western clothes on sale in this mall. To get traditional clothing you must go have to go elsewhere.

After our adventure we returned to the hotel and I crashed for a few hours. The heat at the tombs affected me more than I thought and I didn't drink enough water. Later on in the evening we got together for dinner at the hotel restaurant and found the food there excellent. After dinner I spent some time watching Hindi and Telagu music videos on TV. The video themes generally revolved around beautiful women and lots of dancing. It was interesting to see the multigenerational cast in many of the videos, you would see many older faces as well as young beautiful ones. That was refreshing and speaks to the power of family here. I find the sinuous rhythms in Indian music compelling and would love to learn more about them. There is an incredible cultural history behind tabla and other types of drums and it shows through even in modern music.

Thanks for listening